Three white wines to go with Claudia Roden's Food of Italy recipes

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Asda Lugana, Italy 2012 (£7, Asda) As Claudia Rosen says, Italian cooks world prefer to "update rather than embalm" their classic recipes, and it's an idea that chimes with their counterparts in Italian wineries up and down the boot. You can see this most clearly in the country's white wines, where historical styles have been revivified (literally in terms of their effect on the palate) in recent years so that they no longer lag behind the more celebrated reds. With a swish of cooling acidity and the merest hint of sweetness, this gentle white from a lesser-known vineyard area near to Lake Garda would be my pick as an aperitivo and to sip alongside Claudia's mozzarella artichokes.

Antonelli Trebbiano Spoletino, Umbria, Italy 2011 (£13.95, Jeroboams) The trebbiano variety is much abused and is the key ingredient in a lot of the watery fare found in checked table-cloth trattorias. It's the kind of stuff that has helped perpetuate Italian white's enduring reputation for vapid neutrality. But it is capable of doing much more than cleansing the palate for the frutti di mare. Valentini's remarkable, viscous, herby Trebbiano d'Abruzzo was one of the best whites I've tried from anywhere in the past year (£52 for the 2011 from Lay & Wheeler), while Antonelli's mix of white flowers, apples, honey and nuts from Umbria is a more affordable partner for the sticky chicken.

Terredora Greco di Tufo, Campania, Italy 2012 (£13.99, Waitrose) The aromatic whites from the cooler spots of the north - Alto-Adige, Friuli - have for a long time been considered Italy's best, but the warm south has been catching up with estates at last making the best of their stock of intriguing indigenous varieties. Peachy fiano and the orange-citrus of falanghina are perhaps the best known over here (and easily spotted in decent own-label drops at Tesco and M&S), but greco, particularly the Greco di Tufo of the Campanian appellation of the same name, has a long-established reputation in Italy. Terredora's example has a gorgeous clarity of herbs, green olives and lemon, and a subtly oily texture that works best with Claudia's chicken.

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